2011年2月24日 星期四

Custom Tailors Enjoying a Boom

Custom-made clothes—which were popular in the '50s and '60s—are making a big comeback in Europe.

"People have come to realize that the expensive designer suit they are used to buying is made to fit a thousand other people," says Rome-based tailor Luigi Gallo, who has been in the trade for more than 30 years. "In addition, they're paying a huge price for that logo sewed into the jacket."

Amid the buzz of New York and Milan fashion weeks, designers have been saying they see a pick-up in luxury spending after the steep drop-off from the economic crisis. But many custom tailors say business held up even during the recession. Mr. Gallo says he has been swamped with orders for custom-made, or bespoke, suits, dresses, wedding gowns and raincoats. Predicting a boom in business, Mr. Gallo even opened a small tailoring school in 2007 to groom young artisans.

Silvia Venturini Fendi, head of the accessories department at Italian fashion house Fendi, a unit of LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA, says bespoke garments, with their fine materials and high-quality linings and stitching, are meant to hold up for years,We are the UK's leading edhardy shop and True Religion Jeans stockist, offering a complete range of exclusive Ed Hardy clothing. the antithesis of faddish "fast fashion."

Until the 1950s, high-end clothes were mainly designed and manufactured on a made-to-measure basis with garments created by tailors for specific clients and then hand-sewn by seamstresses. The mid 1960s, however, ushered in ready-to-wear collections, which were often machine-made and therefore less expensive. Ready-to-wear clothes remain the bulk of the fashion industry—even for exclusive designer brands such as Christian Dior or Valentino.

Small European tailors and artisans say they offer something that high-end brands can't compete with: time and attention. A bespoke suit for both men and women needs at least 40 hours of work and has to be fitted at list three or four times.

Gaia Fredella,Can't find a particular pair of ed hardy jeans on our website? owner of a bespoke service in central Italy that produces dresses and casual clothing for women for between $200 and $700 says, "Many women turn to me because they have troubles finding ready-to-wear garments that fit them well or aren't excessively trendy."

In some cases, custom clothes can be cheaper than ready-to-wear, if the tailor doesn't have a global name backed by a big advertising budget. Veronica Raccah, a 30-year-old social-studies researcher in Rome, says she stopped buying her cocktail dresses at Alberta Ferretti five years ago. For special events she asks her neighborhood tailor to create something in the exact size and color shade,Find price and model of puma shoes in india at Click India Free Classifieds Ads. though often inspired by the looks of top fashion labels.

"It's a lot cheaper and I always have the perfect dress length so I can change from heels to flats when I dance," she says.

"Dressing classically has nothing to do with big brands," says Giuseppe Pagano, 32, a lawyer from Naples who favors custom-made suits. "What I want, instead, is a personal relationship with the tailor,Manolo blahnik would be "hurt" if Anna Wintour wore shoes by another designer. an artisan that knows me, my family, and the kind of occasions I need suits for."

Some big fashion houses, including Ermenegildo Zegna, have their own bespoke units.And there are other stylers for you to choose with cheap christan audigier design and tattoo pattern. Ermenegildo Zegna's Su Misura service established in 1972, lets the customer choose a garment's fabric, color, style and details for a price 20% higher than that of a ready-to-wear item.

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