2012年8月15日 星期三

Tourists were always welcome to press their noses against the glass

In 2009, there was denial,hublotreplica. Authorised Breitling Watch Stockists. when landlords continued asking for gilded-era rents, despite the lack of interested renters. In 2010, there was acceptance, when tumbleweeds could be glimpsed in empty storefronts and salespeople became uncommonly friendly. In 2011, there was bargaining, when designers, sensing an opportunity, pounced on leases with what, in retrospect, turned out to be rock-bottom rents.

Well, to put it mildly, grief is so last year.

Conspicuous consumption has made a resounding return to Madison Avenue, at least on that mile of glistening shops stretching north of Barneys New York at East 60th Street. But it isn’t quite the same Madison Avenue as what was there before.

Nearly 50 stores have opened in the last 18 months, including a diverse mix of European luxury labels, contemporary brands and hipper American designers. There’s a concept store called Fivestory, at 18 East 69th Street, that carries cool lines like Visvim and specialized Nikes.

Meanwhile, longstanding tenants like Lanvin, Oscar de la Renta and Chanel are expanding, and other labels, Etro and Gucci among them, are spiffing up their existing stores.

There was a time, and not so long ago, when Madison Avenue, like much of the Upper East Side, would have resisted such changes, especially the arrival of stores like J. Crew, which now has, egad, four stores above 65th Street, and the younger shoppers who now cruise the contemporary blocks of shops like Intermix and Theory. This isn’t the meatpacking district.

“There is a new customer on Madison Avenue, and not just for our store,” said LeAnn Nealz, the president of Juicy Couture, which opened at 860 Madison Avenue in 2006, now facing Tom Ford and separated from Celine by Laduree macarons and Chrome Hearts glitzy sunglasses. Ms. Nealz has lived on the Upper East Side for 25 years, and remembers when the fancy fabric store Pierre Deux was on the block.

“You can now buy a piece of art,Find dsquaredshoes and dsquared shoes men from a vast selection of Clothing, some shoes and a panini,” Ms. Nealz said. “It’s nice having old world New York mixed with some of these younger, hipper brands.”

Tourists were always welcome to press their noses against the glass, but there was once a sense that Madison Avenue was like the world’s most insular shopping mall. Amid stores that telegraphed excess merely by the spotless shine of their glass doors, and somehow adding to the charm of the place, were budget diners and coffee shops serving chicken salad in the shell of a tomato. Alternately, there was La Goulue, with its $28.50 plate of roast chicken and rubbernecking socialites, but that restaurant is long gone, along with that slice of Madison Avenue.

It was the bacon and eggs at Gardenia Cafe and Restaurant, a Greek diner at 797 Madison Avenue, that was a sort of madeleine for Tory Burch, who now lives in a town house a few blocks away. Back when she was just “a Philadelphia farm girl,” as she said, driving into the city with her mother, the first destination was Madison Avenue to look at the window displays.

“It was somewhat of an institution,” Ms. Burch said.

Last September, Ms. Burch, who creates clothes that evoke the lifestyles of the rich and famous at slightly more accessible prices, opened her largest store yet on the site of that diner,vuittonhandbags the Art of Fusion in Watches, which closed in 2007. Ms. Burch took over the entire building, remodeling it with three floors of selling space, a library and vast swaths of marble, mirrors, lacquer and gilt, or what the architect Daniel Romualdez imagined the space might have looked like in the 1880s.

Ms. Burch,Cheap nike outlet online store, discount nike air max and nike free heelshoes on sale. who has 73 stores around the world, had been looking for a space on Madison Avenue, but the rents were daunting. She was close to a deal in 2008 for a small store, but she wisely held back and eventually landed a better deal. After 2009, rents on the avenue averaged $600 to $800 a square foot, down from $1,000 or more, according to brokers.

Historically, designers have seen Madison Avenue as a place to run a store as if it were a billboard, a so-called loss leader. But for designers like Ms. Burch, and more of those contemporary labels entering Madison Avenue, being profitable is a priority, which means people actually have to be there to shop.

“From a performance standpoint, it’s going to be one of our top stores,” she said. “It’s not just about marketing.”

EVERY six months, Jim Leniart, the owner and creator of Red Maps, a series of foldout guides to major shopping destinations, updates a map of Midtown that includes every store along Madison Avenue up to 79th Street. Taking a taxi up the avenue the other day, Mr. Leniart observed that there was not even a dry spot anymore. This was curious in a slow-moving economy, and at a time when retail sales have been shaky at best.

“Nowhere else is there this kind of concentration of stores,” Mr. Leniart said, noting that between 60th and 78th Streets, or roughly one mile, there are 82 designer-clothing boutiques, 34 high-end jewelry stores and 34 stores specializing in categories like shoes, handbags or eyewear. “I have to believe that wealth is a factor.”

And Madison Avenue, at its core, is a local shopping district for a neighborhood that has one of the densest concentrations of wealthy residents in the world. Matthew A. Bauer, the president of the Madison Avenue Business Improvement District (BID), described it as “their Main Street.Official IWC store with full collection of Men's and ladies'shortwigs available to buy online with 0% finance available.” For that reason, the street was poised to rebound more quickly than shopping destinations that rely on heavy traffic from tourists.

When Proenza Schouler opened a store at 822 Madison Avenue in July, it was an unexpected choice because the label’s designers, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, work and associate with a largely downtown crowd. But the reality is that their customers live uptown, and as Mr. Hernandez told Women’s Wear Daily, Madison Avenue “just seems kind of big league.”

The store, small at 2,000 square feet, sticks out like a sore pinkie, with displays of handbags set amid large cactuses and eerily dark walls. On a recent afternoon, two young customers were examining the bags with a delight approaching the indecent. And they were men.

Since major designers saw the recession as an opportunity to reinvest on the street — notably Ralph Lauren, who in 2010 opened a new flagship at 72nd Street to rival his existing flagship in the Rhinelander Mansion on the other side of the street — there are surprisingly few vacant spaces. In 2009, there were more than two dozen vacancies and another two dozen tenants looking to break their leases. Now new stores are coming from Pucci, Yigal Azrouel, Kate Spade, Belstaff and Brian Atwood.

“They think I’m a bakery!” said Faith Hope Consolo, the chairman of the retail group of Douglas Elliman. “Designers call from Europe and Asia, and they all ask me, ‘Is there a building available on Madison Avenue?’ ”

It will not come as a surprise that landlords once again are asking for rents of $1,500 a square foot, higher than before the recession. Nor that the Madison Avenue BID, which tracks store openings from 57th to 86th Streets, announced in July that “Madison Avenue Welcomes Twenty New Stores in the First Half of 2012.” Nor that, as a result of the arrival of more brands that can afford those rents, Madison Avenue could begin to look like every other street of luxury shops on the planet.

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