2011年1月4日 星期二

Good Evening Vietnam: Red Medicine Is Here

Let me say at the offset that Red Medicine is the most exciting new restaurant in concept and execution to hit the Los Angeles culinary scene in many years. And that Chef Jordan Kahn is the primary author of that scene, following on the heels of his mentors Thomas Keller and Grant Achatz to create a whole new cuisine which, in it pseudo-Vietnamese style, is brilliantly innovative in the most traditional sense...We also offer pads and mats for dog crates which will offer all the comfort that is need to your pet while it is in the crate or lacoste shoes. creating dishes of delicious uniqueness and startling flavors which satisfy one's inherent deeper hunger. Further, that impetuous co-owner and partner Noel Ellis has brought forth a startling new, exciting 'take' on the emerging cocktail scene... the Number 18 is a revelation (Krome vodka, chile-anise shrub, lime, grapefruit, Peychaud's bitters,As Adidas Jacket, Nike Free Shoes was re-released in the early 2000s. Thai basil, ginger beer!) but so are the Numbers 33, 6 and others. While the third partner, Adam Fleischman,Welcome to our shop or just enjoy browsing through our stunning collection available inflatable boats for sale in our shop. has spread much of his 'umami' magic onto the project for Oriental 'joss' or luck. "We offer you more than you expect, like at my burger places," is his mantra.

It's unfortunate that all of the recent hoopla about this new restaurant, Red Medicine (8400 Wilshire Blvd., two blocks east of LaCienega on the southwest corner at Gale, (323)651-5500,It is an email notification service that notifies buyers about the recent additions to the ed hardy Shirt available with the company. street and $8 valet parking) which we commented on at length in our recent Huffington Post/LA "Anonymity Overrated," blog has garnered all of that contentious publicity, but this restaurant shall overcome that situation and rise forth to shine in the reflected glory of the three guys who dreamed the dream, walked the walk, and brought it to fruition. "Our restaurant is inspired by the Vietnamese food we craved after hours, from midnight on, when we were working our asses off in the restaurant industry," they write on their website.

In the end, it all comes down to the three essentials of a successful restaurant: food, ambiance and service. And after several visits, we can safely say that this medicine is a pleasure to take with a lot of liquid refreshment, and well may be the cure for whatever ailment you are experiencing. It is posted as a 'pseudo-Vietnamese' eatery, and on their website they state that none of the owners or chefs have ever been to Vietnam or have any relationship with anything Vietnamese except a love for that ethnic French/Chinese cuisine.

But, and this is a big 'but,' you will have an enjoyable, unusual dining-and-drinking experience at Red Medicine if you suspend your craving for an authentic Asian meal and are willing to settle for a different, distinctly different, lunch or dinner and an outstanding bar menu. This location has been completely refurbished and has a rather garish but fun look: high industrial ceiling, red-hued bar, casual furnishings, with a cement floor and rough-hewn wooden tables. The music is loud (what else is new?) and I still have not heard the punk album by Fugazi bearing the name, but the service is splendid (try to get the charming, astute Ms. Francis-Olive to wait on you). Handsome, Cuban-born Jordon Kahn, Chef/Partner, is an intensely brilliant toque... he was the youngest chef ever to work in Thomas Keller's French Laundry kitchen (at 17),Police were called out to at least two Houston malls on Thursday after folks became unruly in lines waiting to buy the large pet carrier. and was part of the pastry team when Keller opened Per Se in New York. Master Chef Grant Achatz was wowed by his desserts, took him to the cutting-edge Alinea in Chicago in 2005; he then returned for a short stint in New York where, at the age of 23, Frank Bruni of the New York Times compared Jordan to Jackson Pollack, and the New York Observer likened his dishes to Salvador Dali paintings. I first encountered his food/desserts at Michael Mina's splashy, doomed XIV here. I have such great respect for his talent and creative achievements that I just know the kitchen will shine even brighter in the months ahead.

The second partner, Noah Ellis, involved with the debacle with S. Irene Virbila, has worked for 17 years in Las Vegas and with Michael Mina's bar programs, and his cocktail/wine menu is a true wonder; you will be exploring it on every visit and come up with something new to drink each time. I must have my usual conversation with him about the oh, so delicious qualities of my sparkling wine passion, Laetitia Brut Rose, the perfect sparkling wine to drunk with all spicy Asian dishes. The third partner, Adam Fleischman, wrote about wine and then opened several wine bars before hitting it big with his four idiosyncratic Umami Burger locations, the predecessor of many more in the In-N-Out mode.

These are three experienced, savvy restaurateurs, so they have covered all the angles: a smart lounge/bar menu and offbeat spirits in the well, an exciting dinner menu, a very different lunch experience... and they stay open 'til 2 am to pick up whatever bar crowd exists in this early-to-bed town. I know that on New Year's Eve, after work, my buddy Rory Herrmann, Chef de Cuisine of Bouchon, showed up here with some staff and a magnum of champagne and a saber... and they performed the sabering ceremony in front of the new restaurant before downing the sparkling spirit. That's what friends are for, and ties are close between the Thomas Keller crowd and Red Medicine; in fact, the Keller bakery is providing breads for the new eatery.

In perusing the menu on my first visit, Patty Eisenberg spotted a dish of Brussel Sprouts ($9) in the Veg section, and commented that she loved that legume. I demurred, but when the dish quickly emerged from the open kitchen we sat in open-mouthed wonder at what they had wrought. Caramelized shallots, fish sauce, vermouth. Here the somewhat bitter nature of the sprouts was actually accentuated by a crisp char, the caramelized shallots brought a dark sweetness, while a pile of shrimp chips on top balanced the darkness. At that moment, our second menu choice was delivered: A dimpled plate of four Chicken Dumplings ($10); think the most ethereal chicken meatballs you have ever eaten and then double the expectation, resulting from the caramelized sugar, lemongrass, pork fat, condiments like hoisin-Sriracha for a touch of heat which emerges on the tongue after a bite or two. Lettuce leaves are furnished to wrap them mu shu style. (If any are left over, ask for a little box for lunch next day, as I did.)

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